Correct execution of a microneedling treatment requires a structured protocol covering everything from initial client assessment to post-session care. Below we describe the complete protocol for aesthetic professionals, including the selection and application of Institute BCN actives for each treatment objective.
1. Prior assessment and protocol design
Medical history and skin assessment
Before starting any microneedling protocol, the practitioner must conduct a thorough assessment:
- Medical history: current medications (especially anticoagulants, systemic retinoids), systemic diseases, history of keloid scars.
- Phototype assessment using the Fitzpatrick scale: phototypes IV–VI require greater caution with depth and active selection (avoid irritants that may trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation).
- Current skin condition: hydration, barrier integrity, presence of infections, inflammation or active lesions.
- Treatment objectives: rejuvenation, blemishes, scars, sagging, etc. Each objective determines working depth, active type and session interval.
Informed consent
The client must sign an informed consent detailing the procedure, expected effects, possible side effects (erythema, temporary oedema, sensitivity) and pre- and post-treatment instructions.
2. Treatment area preparation
Pre-session client instructions
- Discontinue topical retinoids 5–7 days before
- No chemical exfoliation or laser hair removal in the treatment zone 7 days before
- Avoid intense sun exposure 48 hours before
- Do not apply make-up on the day of treatment
- Inform the practitioner of any health changes since the last session
Skin cleansing and disinfection
Initial cleansing is critical for treatment safety. A typical protocol includes:
- Gentle cleanser (cleansing gel or micellar water) to remove make-up, sebum and surface contaminants.
- Second cleanse with specific pre-dermapen cleanser: BCN Cleanser 150 ml is formulated to prepare the skin before treatment, with adapted pH and no residues that could interfere with actives.
- Antiseptic application: many protocols use 0.5% chlorhexidine in aqueous solution for pre-treatment disinfection. Leave for 1 minute and remove with sterile gauze.
- Sterile gauze drying: the skin must be dry before applying actives.
3. Treatment active preparation
Institute BCN active selection depends on the treatment objective:
- Anti-ageing rejuvenation: Hyaluronic acid 0.8%, vitamin C, BCN Base Cocktail, BCN Tensis (firming peptides)
- Blemishes and hyperpigmentation: BCN Lumen (depigmenting), tranexamic acid, vitamin C
- Deep hydration: Hyaluronic acid 0.8% or 2%, BCN Base cocktail
- Firming: BCN Tensis (peptides), DMAE, BCN ECQ10
- Anti-hair loss: BCN Capillum, BCN Scalp cocktail
Active ampoules are opened at the time of use. If multiple actives are used in the same session, mix them in a sterile mixing well immediately before application.
4. Dermapen application technique
Device preparation
Always use single-use sterile needle cartridges. Check device calibration before each session. Select the appropriate needle length and speed for the zone and target depth:
- Face: 0.5–1.5 mm needles depending on the indication
- Eye contour: 0.25–0.5 mm needles (very delicate area)
- Neck and décolleté: 0.5–1.0 mm
- Scalp: 0.5–0.75 mm
- Body (stretch marks, scars): 1.0–2.5 mm depending on age and location
Pre-needling active application
Apply a generous amount of the active to the treatment area. The skin must be moist with the active during dermapen application to facilitate penetration through the microchannels. Never work dry: friction without active can irritate the skin and compromise results.
Working movements
The standard dermapen pass technique is performed in four directions for uniform microchannel distribution:
- Horizontal: passes from right to left and vice versa, with slight overlap (30%) between each pass.
- Vertical: passes from top to bottom and vice versa.
- Right diagonal: passes at 45° diagonal.
- Left diagonal: passes at 135° diagonal.
Applied pressure must be uniform and moderate. Mild to moderate erythema is normal and confirms the treatment is effective. Intense erythema, excessive oedema or petechiae may indicate that the depth or vibration speed is too high for that zone or phototype.
Treatment zones and special considerations
Forehead: Thicker skin zone. Can be treated at greater depth than the eye contour. Movement should be fluid, avoiding excessive dragging over expression lines.
Eye contour: Maximum delicacy zone. Use only specific eye contour actives (BCN Oculare). Do not work more than 5 mm from the orbital rim. Maximum depth 0.5 mm.
Lips and perioral area: Reduce depth to minimum (0.25–0.5 mm). The tissue is highly vascularised and the inflammatory response may be more pronounced.
Neck: Reduce depth. The skin is thinner than the face and recovery may be slower.
5. Post-needling active application and closure
Once passes are complete, apply a second layer of the selected active or a complementary active (e.g., hyaluronic acid for microchannel sealing). Massage gently until absorbed.
Then apply the post-microneedling care product. The BCN Pre & Post products from Institute BCN are formulated for this moment in the protocol:
- BCN Heal 35 ml Airless: repair cream with soothing and healing ingredients for the first post-treatment hours.
- BCN Intense Repair: for skin with pronounced erythema or more aggressive treatment.
- BCN Shield: protective barrier for the hours following treatment.
6. Post-session client instructions
Post-treatment instructions are fundamental for the final result and for preventing complications:
First 24 hours
- Do not apply make-up or cosmetic products other than those indicated by the practitioner
- Do not touch the treated skin with unwashed hands
- Do not expose to heat (sauna, hot baths, intense physical activity)
- Do not apply irritating products (acids, retinoids, pure vitamin C)
- Apply the repair product provided by the centre
Days 2–7
- Gentle cleansing morning and evening with sulphate- and fragrance-free cleanser
- Apply non-comedogenic repair moisturiser
- SPF 50 sun protection mandatory during the day, even on cloudy days
- Avoid mechanical or chemical exfoliation
Weeks 2–4
- Maintain hydration and sun protection routine
- Gradually reintroduce active products (vitamin C, retinoids) from the second week if skin is fully recovered
- Attend the scheduled follow-up
7. Session intervals and number of sessions
The minimum interval between microneedling sessions is determined by the time needed for the skin to complete the proliferation phase (approximately 14 days). In clinical practice:
- Superficial treatments (0.25–0.5 mm): can be repeated every 2–3 weeks
- Medium-depth treatments (0.5–1.5 mm): every 3–4 weeks
- Deep treatments (1.5–2.5 mm): every 4–6 weeks
The total number of sessions varies by indication. For a standard rejuvenation protocol with BCN actives, an initial cycle of 4–6 sessions is recommended, followed by quarterly or biannual maintenance sessions.