Scalp microneedling is a technique that applies the principles of conventional microneedling to the scalp in order to treat different types of alopecia, improve hair density and enhance the action of follicle-stimulating actives. Its combined use with BCN Capillum Cocktail and BCN Scalp Cocktail from Institute BCN delivers results in clinical practice.
Fundamentals of scalp microneedling
Mechanism of action
Scalp microneedling acts on the hair follicle and scalp through several mechanisms:
- Activation of epidermal stem cells: micro-injury activates the stem cells of the follicular bulge (the stem cell niche in the follicle), which are responsible for initiating the growth cycle (anagen phase)
- Growth factor induction: the healing response releases VEGF (vascular endothelial growth factor), PDGF and EGF, which stimulate bulb vascularisation and hair growth
- Controlled micro-inflammation: reactivates resting follicles (telogen phase) that transition to anagen phase
- Deep active penetration: microchannels allow topical actives such as caffeine, minoxidil (if prescribed) and BCN actives to reach the follicle directly
Types of alopecia and microneedling response
Androgenetic alopecia
Androgenetic alopecia (AGA), also known as male-pattern baldness (in men) or female-pattern hair loss (in women), is the most common cause of hair loss. It is hormonal (mediated by dihydrotestosterone/DHT) and genetic in nature. Scalp microneedling has shown positive results in improving hair density and thickness in early and intermediate stages (grade I–III on the Norwood-Hamilton scale).
Diffuse alopecia
Diffuse hair loss may be caused by telogen effluvium (stress, hormonal changes, nutritional deficiencies), traction alopecia or various other causes. Scalp microneedling improves scalp microcirculation and may reactivate follicles in telogen phase.
Alopecia areata
Alopecia areata is autoimmune in origin (the immune system attacks hair follicles). Microneedling can help as an adjuvant treatment but does not modify the underlying autoimmune component. Only perform during mild activity phases and under medical supervision.
BCN actives for scalp microneedling
BCN Capillum Cocktail
BCN Capillum Cocktail is formulated with actives that act on the hair follicle and scalp microcirculation:
- Keratin synthesis co-factors: zinc, iron, B-complex vitamins
- Microcirculation-stimulating actives: improve nutrient supply to the hair bulb
- Growth factors: stimulate the anagen phase
It is the first-choice active for anti-hair-loss and growth stimulation protocols with dermapen.
BCN Scalp Cocktail
BCN Scalp Cocktail offers a more comprehensive formulation that also acts on sebaceous balance and the scalp microbiome, in addition to the above mechanisms. Indicated for alopecia associated with seborrhoea or with an inflammatory component.
Scalp microneedling technique
Preparation
- The client should arrive with clean, dry hair on the day of the session
- Do not apply styling products or spray before the session
- Section the hair to expose the scalp
Dermapen parameters
- Needle length: 0.5–0.75 mm (sufficient to reach the follicular papillary dermis)
- Speed: moderate to high
- Working zones: areas with greatest hair thinning (temples, crown, central area in women)
Application technique
- Prepare the active (BCN Capillum or Scalp Cocktail) in a sterile well
- Apply the active directly to the dry scalp, section by section
- Pass the dermapen in four directions over each section, with 30% overlap
- Moderate scalp erythema is normal and expected
- Apply the remaining active over the treated area upon completion
- Do not rinse the active; allow it to penetrate for at least 4 hours
Post-session
- Wash hair with a mild shampoo 4–8 hours after the session
- Avoid heat (high-temperature hair dryer, sauna) for the first 24 hours
- Regular at-home treatment (anti-hair-loss lotion, minoxidil if prescribed) can be resumed from the following day
Frequency and number of sessions
- Recommended frequency: 1 session every 2–3 weeks during the initial phase
- Standard cycle: 6–12 sessions
- Maintenance: 1 session monthly or bimonthly
Initial results (reduced shedding, improved hair shine) are usually observed from the 4th–6th session. Improvement in density and hair shaft thickness becomes visible at 3–6 months of treatment.